You can drive around Lincoln Square a dozen times and not be aware that Jibek Jolu is there. It’s small, and the perpetually shut blinds make it look like it’s never open. But like your block's street cleaning schedule, this BYOB Kyrgyz spot is absolutely worth knowing about.

The inside of Jibek Jolu looks like a yurt, perfectly setting the stage for the Central Asian menu. Support poles extend to the center of a domed ceiling and meet at a fake smoke hole, while colorful textiles and lattice decorate the tan-colored walls. Those always-closed blinds shut out the outside world, allowing you to pretend you’re inside a friend’s cozy home surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Tables are far enough apart so that a spilled drink one table over won’t end up tie-dying your shirt, but close enough that you can stealthily glance at their food for some ordering inspiration—and there are a lot of delicious Kyrgyz dishes to be inspired by.

Since Jibek Jolu is on our dumpling guide, it’s no secret that we’re enamored by their beef pelmeni covered in a garlicky cream sauce, or that when we can’t fall asleep we count their beef and onion manty instead of sheep. But when we take the dumpling goggles off, there’s still plenty to appreciate. Like rice and beef dolma made with herbaceous grape leaves or kuurdak with juicy pieces of sauteed lamb, beef, or chicken calibrated to have an ideal amount of spice. And the bosso lagman’s hand-pulled noodles have such a fantastic soft chew it feels like each tooth is getting a gentle massage every time you take a bite. 

The food is exciting, but the overall atmosphere here is very calm. There’s no loud music or bustling crowd, and the most action nearby is whatever is going on at the crusty Hertz across the street. There might be regulars sharing a bottle of wine that they brought, or a couple trying out one of the city's only Kyrgyz restaurants for a quiet date after work. And after a meal here, you’ll be wishing there were more.