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Review

Bodega Pasaje 1986

With Barcelona’s most famous chef brothers, Albert and Ferran Adrià (formerly of elBulli), announcing the closure of their culinary empire, a number of new restaurants are ready to take over where they left off. Run by the former director of Albert Adrià’s legendary spot Tickets, Bodega Pasaje 1886 is an upscale bodega (or wine bar) that feels distinctly casual and neighborhood-y. Set on the edge of the city, on what some might call the “wrong” side of Plaza España, you’ll see everyone here from local elderly couples to visitors who clearly rewatched every episode of Chef’s Table during the pandemic. They come for the elevated takes on Catalan dishes with everything from pig’s trotters with black pudding and mushrooms, to roast chicken with raisins and pine nuts, or a simple seasonal tomato, cucumber, and onion salad, but often end up staying all afternoon sipping ice-cold beers on the sunny patio.

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