There are big shoes to fill when you take over a space that had been the decades-long epicenter of Midtown nightlife. So if you’ve ever had the pleasure of stumbling out of Vision, Reign, or Club Vanquish after a night of dancing, hold on to those dear memories. Because financial regret may be the only feeling you’ll be able to muster with its current tenant, a visually stunning steakhouse that offers over-priced food and a snoozy scene.
Prime on Peachtree is impressive at first glance. Tinted glass doors open to reveal a high ceiling, dark interior, stylish mood lighting, and a moment of deja vu that hits you like a cloud of smoke. Literally. With Prime Cigar just next door, cigar and hookah odors seep over into the connecting entrance and bar passage.
But walk further back, the smell goes away, and you’ll find Prime has transformed into a mellow dining room—deep into its soft life era just like some former Club Vanquish patrons no doubt. This could very well be the living room of an art school nepo baby. A central tree with color-changing lights makes a pretty backdrop for those people who measure the night’s success by photo evidence. But get your photo, get your drink (the Peach Smoked Old Fashioned isn’t bad), and leave. Otherwise you’re spending ludicrous prices in a near-dead atmosphere for a meal that tastes like Costco samples.
A single, just-OK crab cake appetizer is $40. The steaks are decent, but once you factor in the forgettable $22 sides, you’ll wish you could travel back in time for a different spot on our steak guide.”
Though the space is attractive, there’s nothing else at Prime that makes you feel like it's worth the splurge. It’s true that the money you spent on bottle service in Vision's VIP lounge in the early 2000s wasn’t worth it either, but at least it came with sparklers and the opportunity to flex for the crowds. Unless you’re Bruce Wayne and into quiet acts of philanthropy, we can easily point you to more fulfilling special occasion-priced dinners.
It’s the cheapest steak here at $98, and it’s fine. But it’s served by itself on a plate with only a dull knife to slice it.
Butter Poached Lobster
Somehow, at $94, this is one of the best value dishes on the entire menu because it’s loaded with so much stuff: a big lobster tail with the claw meat, tom yum polenta, an oddly large cornbread cake, and unsalted popcorn. But the lobster just feels lost in a medley of corn products. The popcorn spilled on the floor of an AMC theater is better seasoned. And the too-thick cornbread sits in the center of it all, questioning its existence.
This is the best thing on the menu. Like a good chicken pot pie, the soup is creamy and comforting but the duck gives it a heartiness without tasting too gamey. The jalapeño biscotti is a bit tough, but when soaked in the chowder all is forgiven.
The crab cake has diced bell peppers and too much bread filling. It’s also $38 for a single, hockey puck-sized cake.
This is good, but it’s too big and tastes more like a meatloaf with brown gravy.
It’s too heavy on the frisse, and too light on the vinaigrette. The salad kits at the grocery store are $15 cheaper and more exciting.