SFReview
Locanda
This spot is Permanently Closed.
People lose their sh*t for Locanda, and we can see why.
The masses are three deep at the bar on Friday nights, producing serious noise and energy. The showcase pastas are well-executed, and the famous puffed up Jerusalem artichoke adeptly walks the line between gimmicky and delicious. They’ve got a giant sign outside that proclaims in neon: “Cocktails.” It’s our kind of spot.
But we don’t find ourselves running back, unless we’re able to slide in at the bar on a less crazy night. Why? Mostly because the pasta in this town is really, really good. The top tier, comprised of the likes of Flour + Water and SPQR, is untouchable. But even more generalist restaurants, like Tosca and Rich Table, are putting out killer noodles (and filled dumplings, to be comprehensive). Let’s call them Group 1A, at least.
Locanda, in the Mission, doesn’t quite make either of these categories. The cacio e pepe is strong, and simple, as is the bucatini. They’re just not all the way to the pinnacle.
So we find ourselves wandering by, peeking in at the crowds, and deciding on something else. Locanda is a good restaurant, but it’s often not worth the madness.