Kin Khao, the popular Thai restaurant, closed in March after the shelter-in-place order took effect. So, in the early days of the pandemic, if you wanted a bowl of their khao soi - the Beyoncé of San Francisco dishes - you were sh*t out of luck. Things changed in September with the arrival of Kin Khao Dogpatch, a casual version of the Union Square original, with a pared-down menu. When I finally reunited with the khao soi, salty, sweet, and spicy flavors sent a laser beam-quick flash of euphoria to my brain. Kin Khao Dogpatch has new offerings, too, like pandan, melon, and mango coconut cream popsicles, pantry items like coconut milk and fish sauce, and, before the recent lockdown, outdoor seating in an airy courtyard.
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