PHLReview
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Just like how Nicolas Cage’s career is the summation of every character he’s ever played (both the ones he got Oscar nominations for and whatever he’s been doing for the past decade), we think that the value of a restaurant is equal to the sum of its parts. It’s mostly about the food, but it’s also about how you feel when you’re there, and whether or not you can imagine yourself enjoying a dinner there.
So when it comes to The Love, we have mixed feelings, and here’s why. When you walk in, it feels kind of like you just stepped into a more upscale version of a mall restaurant, and everything is just a little too formulaic - from the white brick arches that are faded in all the right places to the navy awnings with The Love. printed in Futura (the most universally appealing font ever created). At the same time, though, the food at The Love ranges from good to something you’d go actually out of your way for.
photo credit: Kelly Smith
The menu includes a mix of Southern food and things that you’d expect at a nicer version of the Cheesecake Factory. And even though we roll our eyes every time we see the “Love Bird” (a buttermilk fried chicken dish that’s so decadent you’ll probably bring half of it home and eat it for your next three lunches), and cringe when we order the “Eat Your Veggies!” (the perfect crudite for when you want to pretend you’re being healthy before you order an entire bowl of pasta), we keep asking for them. The pastas are also great, especially the smoked brisket pappardelle, which is perfectly al dente with a smokey beef brisket ragu and topped with a heap of creamy ricotta cheese. It’s a must order, even if you’ve already gone out for pasta three times this week.
Despite their new paint smell and general menu corniness, we actually kind of like it here. Most of their food is pretty good, and there are a bunch of occasions that would land us here, like a solo dinner outside when we feel like people watching, or a client lunch that they suggested take place at The Capital Grille for the 15th time in a row.
So if you don’t mind the Barnes & Noble cafe vibe inside, or are lucky enough to snag one of their sidewalk tables, The Love is worth your time. Much more worth your time than, say, watching Ghost Rider for the first time since you left the theater at minute 11 in 2007.