PARReview

photo credit: Wenkang Shan

Polenta and sausage dish with a side of fresh bread at Les Arlots

Les Arlots

French

20th Arr.

$$$$Perfect For:Drinking Good Wine
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The mid-trot taxidermied piglet standing watch over the front door of this tiny bistro might make you do a double take—especially once you get your plate of complimentary saucisson slices. But the cozy ambiance, nostalgic French comfort food, and friendly staff who may use the informal “tu” will make you feel like a regular. The short menu revolves around updates to bistro old-reliables like egg-mayo punched up with black garlic and smoked eel, or pan-fried sweetbreads paired with celery root mousseline and shiitake mushrooms. The only constant is the saucisse-purée, a gorgeous herb-infused sausage served with silky mashed potatoes filled with a jus so thick it's almost sticky. There's no wine list (bottles line the shelves along the back wall)—but the servers will be more useful in helping you pick a natural glass than the forty framed ortolans staring down at you.

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