C D'Souza Marosa

Before it was refurbished in 2023, C D’Souza felt like a rundown parlor of a stingy distant relative. Now this spot near Marine Lines station—with new polished Burma teak rafters, and a glass case filled with vintage wine glasses (but no wine, because local laws don’t permit a bar in the vicinity of a church, go figure)—has transformed into a Goan classic. Here, the portions are big, and the hospitality is friendly. Order the onion-y buffalo tongue roast done Goan-style with green chillies, and the ros omelet blanketed with thick chicken xacuti gravy. Also get acquainted with the Portuguese-influenced Goan staples like vinegary red vindalho, fiery cafreal in green masala, and funky fermented choriz tucked into pav—and maybe hear from one of the co-owners about Goan painter Derek Monteiro’s art, which lines the walls. Chances are high that you’ll be gently pressed into having a sweet from the case, like the bol di naranjo, fruit jam-filled tarts, and coconut macaroons.