For an introduction to what eating in this city is all about, head to Napier Quarter, a cafe-slash-wine-bar in a Fitzroy backstreet. Produce is prepared with a light but thoughtful touch, which by day might mean a plate of yellow peaches dressed with honey, or heirloom tomatoes with wild sorrel (by night there are natural wines and more substantial dishes). The Anchovy Toast is a cult favorite: Olasagasti anchovies, thick house mayo, salsa verde, and a sliced boiled egg served on rye. Lingering is encouraged—there’s no coffee to go, and there’s even an on-site guesthouse.