The Chinatown restaurant Mein might have a mile-long menu, but if you need a shortcut, know that the noodles are king. This Cantonese spot has mountains of noodle options and is known for its hor fun noodles, so show up early because they will sell out. If you miss the hor fun noodle train, there are still small plates like spicy mashed cucumber salad that’s cooling and heating at the same time and briney shrimp rolls that we’d never leave Mein without eating. Most of the room is filled with the early birds slurping noodles to their heart’s content, couples giggling over plates of chili oil dumplings, and solo diners having a bowl of wonton noodle soup at the bar. And at the end of the meal you can get an order of sweet lava toast.