Goldee's Barbecue

Braving traffic on the I-30 is worth it for the barbecue and social scene at Goldee’s. Both the pork and beef ribs are standouts, which are a little less smokey than other places, but they’re so big that you’ll suck on them with the gusto of a dehydrated hamster on its water dispenser. If you swing by and they’re serving the Laotian sausage, you should get an order. The hints of lemongrass and basil in the meat go well with the jeow som spicy dipping sauce and a little scoop of sticky rice. There’s always a line and it sometimes takes three hours to get through, so come early or commit to camping out on a lawn chair. Strike up a conversation with whoever’s next to you in the queue—they’re probably fellow barbecue academics serious about getting their Texas BBQ doctorate. Or it might just be Jon Hamm.