Lo Sfizio

The pizza at this casual spot in the residential neighborhood of Tiberio is worth the uphill trek it takes to get to it. The tender, thick-crusted Neapolitan pies are one of the island’s best bargain meals, but if you’re incapable of turning down pasta, try the paccheri totani (a short, chubby pasta served with squid in a tomato-based sauce) or the scialatielli con frutti di mare with zucchini and swordfish. Order a bottle of falanghina, a white wine that’s grown in the volcanic soil across the bay, and grab a seat outside under a wooden pergola or the pedestrian-only street.