SFReview
photo credit: Melissa Zink
Handroll Project
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When’s the last time you had a meal at Ju-Ni that came out to less than $75? We’d bet $75 and our most prized monstera that the answer is never. But if you want the same high-quality fish for about half the cost of that beloved NoPa spot’s omakase ($220 at the time of writing), head to their casual sister restaurant, Handroll Project. The Mission spot specializing in temaki is fun and laidback—and you won’t have to shell out a week’s worth of rent to get here.
First, how dinner at this 14-seat sushi counter works. The handrolls are served omakase-style, in sets of five ($36) or seven ($55). Though you can order a la carte (rolls are $7.50-$18 each), the sets are the cost-efficient way to sample the menu. This is the first handroll bar to touch down in SF, so expect a crowd and a waitlist—they don’t take reservations.
But waiting with the masses is worth it. Once you’re inside this lighthearted and unstuffy place, the fun begins. The space that looks like a start-up office and a stark all-white hallway inside Kim Kardashian’s mansion is filled with other raw fish enthusiasts along for the ride. To your right you might clink glasses of wine with a trio of coworkers in vests or couples going feral over a gleaming box of uni. And as your sushi chef showers an ikura handroll in frozen monkfish liver pâté with a massive crank, you might strike up a convo with someone filming B-roll for an Instagram reel on their DSLR.
photo credit: Melissa Zink
You’d be right to assume that Handroll Project knows a thing or two about rice and fish, given their connection to Ju-Ni. What makes this spot shine is the expertly balanced topping combinations that are straight-up decadent. Scallops and avocado are coated in a creamy miso aioli that could make stale bread taste good. Mixed into the fatty tuna, tiny chunks of pickled radish will audibly crunch in your mouth, although the sound won’t be loud enough to mask your amazed muttered expletives. And definitely add their nose-clearing pickled wasabi roots for a tangy kick to every bite.
This is a quick dinner (you'll be in and out in less than 45 minutes), so don’t expect to kick back for hours, debriefing a break-up with a friend. Instead, come here for casual Wednesday night dates with someone who doesn’t mind waiting an hour or two for some of the best seafood in SF—getting handed a parade of gorgeous fish pockets over a bar is one of the most exciting things to do in the city.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Melissa Zink
Chef's Poke Handroll
photo credit: Melissa Zink
Creamy Scallop
photo credit: Melissa Zink
Toro Takuan
photo credit: Melissa Zink
Ikura & Ankimo
photo credit: Melissa Zink