NYCReview
photo credit: Noah Devereaux
Win Son
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We could complain about the fact that there’s only one bathroom, or we could tell you about the time that it took us a few minutes to get the bartender’s attention. But the bathroom thing seems pretty minor, and we’ve been told by several sources that our faces are actually pretty ignorable. In the end, we have very few bad things to say about Win Son. In fact, it’s our favorite sit-down restaurant in East Williamsburg.
The food at this East Williamsburg restaurant is Taiwanese-American. You should know, however, that this doesn’t mean fusion, and that if you want a cheeseburger egg roll, you’re still going to have to go to Applebee’s.
There’s lu rou fan (minced pork over rice), beef wrapped in scallion pancakes, and a Taiwanese staple known as flys head (equal parts pork and chives). Pretty much everything comes topped with something like scallions or fried shallots, and, as you see each dish come out of the kitchen, you’ll know for certain that you want it to be a part of your life. Sure, maybe the zhajiangmian (noodles with fermented bean paste) could use a little more sauce, but you’ll finish the bowl regardless.
It’ll be hard not to, seeing as how the food is great, and this is honestly just a pleasant place to have a meal. The dining room itself is a little nicer than the one at your average neighborhood spot, there’s some outdoor seating, and they keep the mostly-hip-hop soundtrack at the exact volume where you can enjoy it but still have a conversation. All in all, this is one of the coolest places where you can eat in your sweats on a Tuesday.
And you should feel free to do so. But you should know that this place is also great for a fun night out with a couple of friends or a brunch with some out-of-towners when you need a spot that’s subtly impressive and doesn’t cost a fortune. In other words, Win Son is just about your ideal neighborhood restaurant - and if you don’t happen to live in the neighborhood, that doesn’t make it any less ideal.