NYCReview
Old school Italian restaurants. This city is full of them, and everyone has a favorite. Except us, that is. For whatever reason, this sort of dining has never appealed to us for much more than something to do with your third cousins when they come to visit from wherever third cousins come from. I guess it’s the fact that a meal in a place like Il Mulino or John’s can sometimes feel like little more than a really expensive reason to take a nap. Plus, Jay Z hasn’t invited us up to Rao’s yet, and we’re kind of holding out for that.
But recently, we were turned on to a cult favorite of this type, Da Umberto. Yes, this is old-school Italian eating (Tuscan to be exact), but this is definitely more our speed. Unlike a lot of other Little Italy and classic New York Italian joints, Da Umberto foregoes some of the shtick often found in these restaurants, and is pleasantly devoid of any pictures of the owner standing with Chazz Palminteri. It’s actually a very classy spot with low lights and a contemporary vibe - appropriate even for a [perfect_for slug=“first-early-in-the-game-dates”]First/Early in the Game Date[/perfect_for], assuming you are with someone who finds being wasted on red wine and truffles attractive. The food at Da Umberto is solid, and refreshingly relies on quality ingredients to make an impression, rather than lots of crushed red pepper and “gravy.” We were also impressed with the fact that the very friendly, very Italian staff manages to pull off “attentive” without coming across like this.