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Lots of big ’90s things aren’t around anymore: beepers, Ask Jeeves, synchronized dancing to The Macarena. The original version of Coco Pazzo, on the Upper East Side, also reached peak popularity in the ’90s and then closed a decade ago. Unlike many other hits from that era, this spot is back - now serving casual lunch and more upscale dinner in Soho. But in the current world of NYC Italian restaurants, there’s nothing that makes the new Coco Pazzo worth going out of your way to experience again.
The food here - ranging from salads and seafood appetizers to pastas and shareable entrees - is all fine. The most interesting dishes are in the piatto unico (one dish meal) section of the menu. As the name suggests, these consist of different things on a single plate: there’s a pasta element, like linguini with clam ragu, plus a portion of meat or seafood, like baked clams. The pastas are better than their accompanying sides across the board, but at least this setup allows you to taste various parts of the menu without spending a lot of money (all of them are around $20). Share a couple of these entrees, plus the four-cheese baked rigatoni, and you’ll have an enjoyable meal here. But know that whatever you order, you’ll think back on your dinner less like Seinfeld , and more like those multicolored iMacs - you enjoyed them in the moment, but you probably haven’t missed them too much since.
Like the food here, the space and service at Coco Pazzo won’t make anyone mad. Some things are carved tableside, there’s jazz playing at a low volume, and four different servers will check on you every couple of minutes. It’s a decent option for the times when you care more about a restaurant being inoffensive than having incredible food - like a dinner with your in-laws, or lunch with an old coworker who might be able to help you get a job. Sure, it’s not that memorable, but it still comes in handy. Unlike that beeper you haven't turned on since 2001.