ATXReview
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Veracruz Fonda & Bar
Included In
At some point during dinner at Veracruz Fonda & Bar, you’ll probably forget that you’re in a square in the middle of a 700-acre, master-planned community between an Irish pub and a corner of Mueller that feels like it’s been under construction for almost as long as Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia. If the name Veracruz sounds familiar, that’s probably because the mini-chain of trailers have become synonymous with migas and some of the best breakfast tacos in Austin. Either that, or you got an A in high school geography, and you know all about how this restaurant is inspired by the coastal Mexican state. Veracruz Fonda takes everything you love about breakfast tacos—freshness, execution, and attention to detail—and expands it into an all-day menu that’s just as good for a quick breakfast as it is for Happy Hours, date nights, or a dinner with friends.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
photo credit: Richard Casteel
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Despite the perpetual construction surrounding it, Veracruz Fonda is situated on a picture-perfect corner of the pedestrian-friendly part of Mueller that feels every bit as dreamlike as you’d expect to see in an architectural rendering with smiling families and cute puppies that never age. The patio—lined with metal planters and decorated in bright and pastel colors—is the big draw here. Still, there’s also a welcome sense of escape that comes from sitting in the large, dark dining room, outfitted with massive murals and hanging woven lanterns.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
If you’re here for breakfast, get the migas taco to discover what made Veracruz the legends that they are in the world of early morning dining. Otherwise, start with an order of shrimp ceviche to kick things off on a bright and refreshing note. Then, Tetris together a tabletop full of picadas, panuchos, tamales, and large plates. Unlike the trailers that focus on tacos, here they just make up a small portion of the menu—the rest is a series of Veracruz-inspired dishes, including sauteed head-on shrimp doused in a rich and spicy chipotle salsa, enchiladas with a bitter, slightly fruity mole Veracruzano, or a deep-fried whole fish that takes up half the table like a crispy, edible centerpiece. And since this is a proper restaurant, that means there’s also a full bar, complete with frozen margaritas, house cocktails, low-intervention wines, and draft beers.
Stepping out of Veracruz Fonda, and back onto the streets of Mueller can be a bit jarring. Maybe it’s the stark contrast between the family-filled parks across the street from the dark, lively dining room of the restaurant, or maybe those extra House ‘Ritas just pack a pretty strong punch.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Melon Aguas Frescas
photo credit: Richard Casteel
El Tradicional Breakfast Taco
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Shrimp Ceviche
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Pork Tamal
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Mole Enchiladas
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Cochinita Pibil