SEAReview
photo credit: Nate Watters
Umami Kushi
Included In
Grab-and-go snacks can be hit or miss. Seattle dogs after a DJ set at Neumos? Hit. Boxed tuna salad sandwiches at the airport? Miss. Umami Kushi, on the other hand, is not just a hit. This Rainier Beach shop serves some of the best ready-to-eat takeout in the city, by way of panko-coated, deep-fried okazu pan. These savory stuffed pastries make for a $7-or-under lunch that’s just as quick as it is tasty.
The dough succeeds on its own, with a crackle on the outside and donut-like airiness on the inside. But then it gets packed with fillings like chicken adobo, beef curry, and smoked salmon in a potato cream sauce topped with furikake, which makes choosing a favorite as emotionally challenging as picking the cutest dog in a box full of newborn puppies. The limited specials are where Umami Kushi gets creative, though, and the experiments pay off. Those specials end up being our favorites, particularly the pan loaded with tangy crumbled pork and garlicky homemade kimchi.
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
Umami Kushi also produces homemade yuzu kosho, fries up beignets on the weekends coated in everything from cocoa powder to strawberry dust, and offers yakitori catering. (Kushi means “skewer” in Japanese, after all.) But the stars of the show are those okazu pan, whether you get them in Rainier Beach, at Umami's other location at Metier Brewing in the CD, or out of the pastry case from a local cafe like Coffeeholic House or The Station. We'd even bet they'd be a great snack to bring to the airport. (Sorry, tuna sandwich.)
Food Rundown
Pork Kimchi Pan
photo credit: Nate Watters
Cajun Chicken Pan
photo credit: Nate Watters
Beef Curry Pan
photo credit: Nate Watters