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Canlis
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Canlis is such a special occasion destination that it qualifies as a Seattle bucket list activity. It’s been the fanciest restaurant in the city since opening in 1950, and even though nothing aesthetically has changed about the iconic dining room overlooking glistening Lake Union, a trip to Canlis feels different from years past.
While the restaurant is still a marvel in mid-century modern architecture filled with chic furniture, folks dressed to the nines, and palpable adrenaline, every encounter with staff seems markedly more down to earth. On our previous visits before the pandemic, servers used to steam tablecloths with portable irons and deliver the same script to every table like programmed robots. Now, sommeliers crack jokes about getting hammered on recent trips to Manhattan as they pop the top of your hazy pét-nat with a cheap wine key. Plates are placed on the table with synchronized precision like before, but it just happens seamlessly in the background instead of with overwhelming pomp and circumstance. In other words, Canlis has chilled the f*ck out.
This relaxed shift feels more aligned with the parts of Canlis we love the most, a.k.a. the Canlis that puts on summer pop-up parties in the parking lot, with a hot tub, mai tai slushies, and the best nachos we’ve ever had. When Canlis puts on a fine dining show that also doesn’t take itself too seriously, it’s both a good meal and a good time.
For $165 per person, you’ll choose three options from three different courses. Each course (except dessert) has a meat, fish, and vegetable option. While the food here doesn’t blow us out of our chairs, the portions are a little bigger, and the menu is much more memorable than what Canlis used to serve—which makes sense when you consider that they hired a new chef in 2021. An amuse-bouche of milk toast sandwiching scallop mousse and frizzled leeks is something we wish was served by the basket at every dive bar in town. We’re also fans of the marbled striploin, complete with a sticky, charred Walla Walla onion that's accompanied by a saucer of beefy jus with wild rice for sipping. Meanwhile, dishes like caramelized sunchokes with meyer lemon followed by squashy cubes of pumpkin glazed in sake lees aren't just meatless modifications—they make this place a vegetarian destination. And chewy slices of smoked cacao nib nougat draped over a heap of sweet milk ice cream would be a near-perfect dessert, if only it hadn't gotten a little soupy in transit.
There are other places around town where you can get a big-ticket dinner that tastes better, like Archipelago or Cafe Juanita. But at Canlis, it’s really about the whole package. You’re not just here to pay way more than you usually would for a small morsel of steak. You’re also here to wear a gala-type outfit that would otherwise rot in a closet corner with your forgotten Halloween costumes. You’re here to grab a cocktail in the lounge before dinner and listen to the classical pianist play baroque takes on Taylor Swift songs. You’re here to have at that bacon-laden minty romaine salad with croutons and pecorino matchsticks that’s been on the menu for 70 years. Don’t expect to be stunned speechless, but do expect to share a fantastic night out with anyone from your betrothed to your boss. Especially if your boss picks up the check.
Food Rundown
Amuse Bouche
Spot Prawns
Canlis Salad
Sunchoke
Sablefish
photo credit: Canlis