NYCReview
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Tolo
Included In
A new business trying to insert itself into Dimes Square has to do a whole lot to steer clear of unironic Fury Road cosplayers drinking too much natural wine. But Tolo has quickly found its place: The Chinese wine bar is where you go to escape some of the annoyingness of this microneighborhood, and to enjoy exciting food and wine without the constant reflections off of mirrored wrap-around sunglasses.
Lit with candles and golden lamps, the small restaurant is hidden behind a yellow and red awning from an old Chinatown cafe. Couples sit at a counter, drinking from razor-thin glasses—the wine is curated by the folks at nearby Parcelle, and there's an approachable short list of funky, juicy natural wines that pair well with the flavorful food.
On one visit, while sitting at the bar, we overheard someone complaining about the director of their art gallery taking curation to a place they could "no longer abide." Their companion, though, was distracted by the open kitchen, where a chef in a rainbow tie-dye hat can usually be seen tossing sticky rice and Chinese sausage in a large wok.
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
No matter where you're sitting at Tolo, the food commands your attention. Come with a few people and share a bunch of things from about a dozen small plates and five larger options, all under $40. The vegetables are consistently impressive: water spinach with fermented tofu that tastes like an old school Italian restaurant's garlic and broccoli rabe pasta, and salt-and-pepper tofu with a great texture on the crust. It's smart, soulful cooking, from the cold “mouthwatering” chicken—moist and full of Sichuan chile—to a plate of string beans with gingery minced pork.
We also love it here because it’s versatile. Need a fun spot for a date-night with a playlist of jazz and late ’90s hip hop? Tolo. Need to catch up with a few old friends over a $60 (or $335) bottle of wine? Tolo. Need somewhere to start your night with a juicy, natty pinot and a brown paper bag of nori french fries before heading out to show face in the neighborhood? You guessed it.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Seaweed Shake Shake Fries
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Cold “Mouthwatering” Spicy Chicken with Cashews
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Water Spinach, Fermented Tofu, and Garlic Sauce
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Sweet and Sour Crispy Fish
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Seared Scallop, Garlic, Seafood Soy and Puffed Rice
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Crab and Chinese Broccoli Fried Rice
photo credit: Alex Staniloff