NYCReview
photo credit: Adam Friedlander
Leo
Included In
NYC has a lot of world-class pizza, and the very best can be a total pain in the ass to get your hands on. (Yes, that’s us giving you the side-eye, Lucali.) Leo, opened by the Ops team in 2019, stands out because it’s not only one of the best pizza spots in the city, but it’s also easy to get into. You can walk into this casual, spacious Williamsburg restaurant on a whim with three of your friends, and getting a table will likely not be an issue.
Pizza is really all about the crust, and Leo is doing their own thing with it. You’ll like what they’re doing. Their crust is somewhere between a flatter, slightly crispy New York style and a poofy, chewy Neapolitan, and—because it’s made with sourdough—you’ll taste a noticeable tang.
photo credit: Kenny Yang
Although the margherita is an automatic order at a lot of places, we prefer their pies with toppings. Our favorite is the garlicky clam version, which makes all future train rides to New Haven unnecessary. If you want a larger pizza with your own custom combination of toppings, get the NY slice pie, which is made with a mozzarella, provolone, and pecorino base.
Pizzas aren't the only things worth trying at Leo. Get a bowl of housemade pasta and a small plate like the surprisingly complex butter beans with charred cabbage, and pair your food with something from the substantial natural wine list. For dessert, there’s always a rotating flavor of soft serve. Whatever it is (fig leaf and melon, for example), order it.
If you’re in the mood for top-notch pizza and didn’t have the foresight to anticipate this craving two weeks ago when reservations around the city were still available, you don’t have to settle for the mediocre slice shop around the corner. Come to Leo, have a pleasant sit-down meal, and contemplate why all restaurants with great food can’t be this painless.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kenny Yang
Caesar Salad
Butter Beans
photo credit: Adam Friedlander
Meatballs
photo credit: Kenny Yang
Tagliatelle
photo credit: Adam Friedlander
Clam Pie
NY Slice Pie
photo credit: Kenny Yang