MIAReview
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
EntreNos
Included In
We’ve never heard more South Florida farms name-dropped by servers in tableside speeches than at this moment in time. But even with this growing awareness of our functional soil, EntreNos has taken the all-things-local mission statement further than anywhere else in town by sourcing 99.9% of its menu from the frustratingly long state of Florida. And a meal here is a series of delicate bites that make you contemplate how delicious your own backyard is.
EntreNos is a pop-up, operating out of the casual sandwich shop Tinta Y Cafe in Miami Shores. They only do dinner, and there are only about three employees (two chefs and a server) running service each night. It does very much feel like a casual cafe here, albeit with slightly dimmer lights. And the counter seating in front of the open kitchen provides the best view of the reason you’re here: the food.
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
To really get this place, you have to be interested in food—both how it tastes and the journey it took to land on your plate. Each dish comes with a brief introduction from one of the two chefs, who speed-walk plates from the kitchen to the table, in an understandable rush but never too hurried to answer highly specific questions about mangoes. They’ll tell you that the fish in the crudo is traditionally used as a bait fish by anglers. They’ll tell you about the market in Delray where they bought the golden tilefish, and excitedly add that you can sometimes get pumpkin swordfish there if you’re early enough. They’ll walk away, you’ll Google pumpkin swordfish, and get excited too.
This meal is full of revelations like that. All these invisible ingredients that surround us daily suddenly turn visible with each bite. Yes, in some parts of the country, this whole farm-to-table thing is so ubiquitous it’s turned into cliche. Maybe you’re lucky enough to live in a city where that’s the case. We’re not quite there yet, but if EntreNos is any indication, we’re hopefully on our way.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
Crudo
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
Chawanmushi
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
Grilled Sebastian Oysters
Rotating Fish
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
Dry Aged Ribeye
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
Uva Caleta Con Queso