LAReview
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Spartina
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Included In
It happens like clockwork. Someone in your group text says they want to eat somewhere “fun and different!,” you respond with an uni omakase in a far-flung neighborhood, and they promptly reply that this meal needs to be in West Hollywood. Ground-breaking. Suddenly, you’ve lost all interest in the conversation and just want to find a place that everyone will commit to as quickly as possible. This is when you need to remember Spartina, a casual Italian restaurant on Melrose.
Finding a place to eat in LA with friends is a challenge - plans change and people bail. But Spartina, with its central location and food that keeps everybody happy, is always a solid backup.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Spartina is on one of West Hollywood’s busiest stretches, but you could also drive past it every day without noticing it. The entrance is on a side street, and its patio is so heavily guarded with potted plants you’d think you accidentally drove to a nursery. Once you’re behind those, you’ll find a festive outdoor space with string lights, lots of heat lamps, and plenty of seating if you’re with a big group. The interior is clean and modern, but not so upscale that you’d feel weird on an early-in-the-game date. There’s also a bar that fills up by 8pm with neighborhood people drinking wine. All of this is to say, you feel comfortable at Spartina, and that goes a long way when you’re with someone who just found out that uni is sea urchin gonads.
Lucky for your friend, there is none of that on Spartina’s menu. Instead, there are a bunch of pizzas, several pastas, big plates of meat, and an antipasti section with everything from grilled avocado to meatballs. Nothing is core-rattling fantastic (except the walnut pie dessert), but you’re also going to be perfectly happy with everything that hits the table. And sometimes that’s enough when you’ve realized your friends aren’t going any further east than La Brea.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Bread & Whipped Ricotta
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Grilled Avocado
Pepperoni Pizza
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Pork Collar Ragu
photo credit: Jakob Layman