Rincon Chileno

If some meals feel like fireworks shows, then by contrast, others are a nice pat on the back. This 50-year-old Chilean restaurant in East Hollywood falls into the latter category. It's not flashy in the slightest and your dinner will probably take two full hours. But the unrushed casualness forces you to pump the brakes on your day and sit down for a simple, filling meal at one of LA's only Chilean restaurants. 

What Rincon Chileno lacks in pizzazz, it makes up for in traditional, no-nonsense food. The main reason to visit this restaurant is to eat their incredible empanadas. These golden beef pies have a soft, spongy crust that gives a little when you press firmly with your fingers. They're thick enough to conceal the pino, the Chilean name for ground beef stewed together with soft onions, olives, and golden raisins for a little break of sweetness. Bite into the cheese empanada, and a wave of salty, melted dairy oozes out the crispy fried crust.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Not everything on the menu works as well as the empanadas. Over in entree world, there's a nice, lightly breaded milanesa, but it might hit the table at the same time as some ceviche mixto that eats like an eraser cap. Be confident ordering the humita, though. This steamed corn tamal is soft like custard, and perfumed by the sweet, dried basil mixed into the masa. We'd commit to a long meal at Rincon Chileno any day if it involves the humita. But you really do need to commit.

Despite incredibly kind servers, the flow of a meal at Rincon Chileno can feel awkward. Service is slow and the space is sparse, with a wall dividing Rincon Chileno's restaurant area and a mini-mart section where you can grab a quick empanada or shop for Chilean wines, pastries, and frozen humitas. Expect to spend some time alone with your thoughts, in between the thuds of meat cleavers from the kitchen and the YouTube playlist on the TV streaming folk music.

Rincon Chileno's draw is at least partially due to LA's lack of Chilean restaurants. But if you're looking for great empanadas and an excuse to slow down for an hour of your life with thoughtful, delicious food, it's a good choice. Not everything has to be fireworks, after all.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Empanadas

These empanadas measure half the size of your face. Some are baked (usually the ones with meat inside) and some are fried (usually the cheesy versions). In either case, empanadas are what Rincon Chileno does best. The sweet-savory beef has nice textural contrast from diced hard-boiled egg, sweet raisins, and salty olives. We also love the sturdy cheese empanada. Cut all that melted queso with some spicy salsa verde on the side and you'll be in good shape.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Humita

This beautiful, silky tamal might not have the varied textures and consistencies of some of the other dishes. But that's perfectly fine by us. It's gently steamed until soft like cornmeal porridge, but it tastes way more interesting with that. The corn's natural sweetness shines with the dried basil in the masa, and it's flavorful enough not to need cheese or meat.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Milanesa de Carne

You've had meat and potatoes before, but this is a good version of the classic combo. The steak is lightly fried and still soft in the center, while the well-cooked potatoes maintain some crunch.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Ceviche Mixto

The seafood in this ceviche is rubbery, which is a shame because the leche de tigre is so bright and sour.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Mote Con Huesillo

There's a lot going on in this dessert/beverage hybrid and we're into it. The fermented beverage is crisp and refreshing like an iced tea, with a slight bubblegum-y flavor (a bit similar to Peruvian chicha). It's extremely sweet with hints of cinnamon. Our favorite part, though, is the preserved peach and soft wheat berries in the glass that you spoon out.

Torta de Mil Hojas

Anything with this much dulce de leche is hard to dislike, even if the layers of pastry are tough to cut through. This cake itself could be softer, but it gets the job done, especially with a cup of coffee.