LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Bottle + Rye
Included In
In case you haven’t heard, intimacy is over. The practice of cherishing loved ones in private corners has been replaced with sending each other TikToks of an Italian greyhound in knitwear, and sweet nothings of ‘can you pick up more Imodium’ via WhatsApp. But sometimes our silly, little, base human instincts for things like true emotional connection kick in. And that’s when you go to Bottle + Rye, a teeny, tiny wine bar where knees touch, hands are held beneath tables, and stories are shared over London’s most sensational anchovy toast.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
On the edge of Brixton Village, it’s a simple, dimly lit setting that feels intimate. Not intimate in the way that your estate agent called that glorified cupboard an ‘intimate studio for young professionals’. But a petite slice of Parisian charm that’s perfect for sharing secrets between sips of a skin-contact moscato. Aside from a couple of high tables with wooden stools, most of the action happens at the dark oak bar that snakes around the open kitchen. It’s somewhere you’ll want to sit for hours, romancing or reminiscing, while picking at terrine and taking on the broody personality traits of a ‘20s Left Bank novelist. A sip of fizzing pet nat, a bite of saucisson, talking, more sipping, inevitably some kissing, only ever interrupted by the offer of another glass and the arrival of sharing plates.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
The concise blackboard menu is designed for ordering a bit of this and a bit of that, with someone you like enough that you’re not going to mind if your cutlery touches. Expect some classic nods to its Parisian cafe energy, with moreish skinny frites alongside near-rare steak, and a deeply comforting bowl of haddock brandade. But it’s undoubtedly that anchovy power toast that you’ll return for. The oh-so soft, white bread soldiers get a honey wash, then a delightfully industrial quantity of butter is added, before it’s grilled over a high heat, and the perfect dose of salty anchovies are added. Like the space itself, it’s small and sweet, but never sickly. Really, it’s the ultimate mascot for a meal that’s to be savoured and never rushed. Intimacy isn’t over, it’s a night spent at Bottle + Rye.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Cantabrian Anchovies On Toast, Fen Farm Butter
This is one of our Best New Dishes Of 2022. Check out the full guide here.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Haddock Brandade, Pink Fir Crisps, Provencal Herbs
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Charred Pumpkin, Sunflower Seed, Fig Salsa
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
200G Flat Iron Steak, Frites, Peppercorn Sauce
Quince & Fig Leaf Éclair