CHIReview
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Lonesome Rose
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If you’ve ever been cornered by a close-talker with strong opinions on ear candling, you know that one annoying person can ruin a party. The same is true of restaurants: one or two bad dishes can ruin an otherwise enjoyable meal. At Lonesome Rose, a Tex-Mex spot in Logan Square, you’ll have a good time if you’re selective about which dishes you decide to spend time with.
First off, this is a relaxing place to hang. The atmosphere channels southern California, with an open and airy space, wood accents, and a lot of plants for decor. It’s open all day, with a few breakfast options and a short lunch and dinner menu. But while some things on the menu are good, the fact that the choices are so limited makes the unsuccessful dishes as distracting as that guest who hangs out by the Chex Mix and keeps talking about their theory that JK Rowling doesn’t actually exist.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
We’ll start with the hits - like the chili con queso. The cheese coats the chips without being too thick, and there’s just the right amount of both Velveeta-y-ness and spice. As for tacos, the fish is by far our favorite, with tilapia fried perfectly in a flavorful beer batter, and a remoulade dressing that complements the other ingredients very well. The fried chicken torta is also delicious, with juicy chicken, pickled peppers, and a rose aioli that keeps things interesting without tasting like a flower shop.
Other dishes don’t come off as well, though. The nachos - topped with queso, black beans, carne asada, and both pickled onions and fresno chiles - start out looking great, but the liquid cheese and black beans end up turning everything into a wet, grey mess. Sogginess is also an issue with the rajas con crema taco (it basically tastes like a mouthful of sour cream), as well as a shrimp taco that’s drenched in a pasilla chili sauce. Then there’s the bitter-tasting fire chicken taco. It’s the only more “fusion-y” item on the menu, with gochujang and nori, and it seems as out of place as that 38-year-old who shows up at a college party.
All this being said, you can still enjoy Lonesome Rose if you order properly. Their cocktails are excellent - unsurprisingly, since this place is owned by same people as Lost Lake (a fantastic bar in the same neighborhood). And the restaurant is nice enough inside to make hanging out over drinks and queso enjoyable. Plus, after 5pm they open their basement bar, Golden Teardrops, which also has great drinks, and is a good option if you want to hang out somewhere different but not actually walk more than a few steps.
At the end of the day, Lonesome Rose is a neighborhood restaurant. Not worth going out of your way for, but perfectly fine if you’re nearby and know what to get. It’s like your annual block party, where you’ll see both the nice neighbor who watches your dog and the guy who’s always double parked and blocks everyone in. Put a little bit of thought into your game plan and you’ll have a good time.
Food Rundown
Chips and Salsa
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Chile Con Queso
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Truck Stop Nachos
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Baja Fish Taco
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Carne Asada Al Pastor
Chipotle BBQ Shrimp
Rajas Con Crema
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Tuna Tostada
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Fried Chicken Torta
photo credit: Sandy Noto