CHIReview
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You can count on two things if you’ve decided to eat at a bar in River North. One, around 7pm the bass is going to crank up and make your drink look like the glass of water from Jurassic Park. Two, the menu will probably have tacos, sushi, and a brussels sprout salad. Most likely all three. Centennial sets itself apart from these places by serving pub food with an Indian twist, and the rustic space is also one you want to spend some time in. And as long as you order correctly, it succeeds.
Centennial doesn’t really fit in with the River North scene. Everything is made of wood, brick, and metal with exposed bolts and iron fixtures, and the space sort of feels like what we imagine it’d be like to hang out in the hull of a Colonial ship. It feels like it’s been around forever, and is a perfect spot to post up with some heavy beers from their extensive list and scurvy food.
Speaking of food, Centennial’s menu leans heavy on the meats, and you’ll find pork shank, lamb, and lots of sausage. None of the food here could be considered light, and most dishes come with some kind of heavy curry or yogurt sauce. They do some stuff really well: the mussels, which are steamed in Belgian beer with potato and curried sausage, are great. We also like their pulled chicken sandwich, which is smoked with curry and served on a flatbread with a yogurt sauce and pickled onion. But some of the more ambitious plates fall short. The scallops are overly complicated, and there’s a roasted carrot wrapped loosely in phyllo dough with lentils and cauliflower that just doesn’t work. The safest plan is to stick with the simpler dishes, or stuff that seems reasonable to be coming out of the kitchen in a bar.
Despite the inconsistent food, Centennial can still be an enjoyable spot. Servers are really friendly, quick to offer tastings of their favorite beers, and happy to let you linger after you’ve finished with your meal. This is the kind of place you won’t mind staying for a while, and if you stick with the right dishes, it’s a great place to put in your River North rotation.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Pork Rillons
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Mussels
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Mac and Cheese
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Pulled Madras Chicken
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Burger
photo credit: Sandy Noto