Il Paradiso Perduto

There’s a lot to love about Il Paradiso Perduto, including the massive portions, occasional live jazza, and big space that’s always loud and feels like a party. Be sure to book ahead, as it’s the only way you’ll be able to get a table inside or out by the canal—otherwise you’ll be stuck standing next to the water, eating your cicchetti, and peering creepily inside like Javert does in Les Miserables. Look for the pasta machine in the window cranking out fresh bigoli, which they use in a dish that comes with so much seafood (prawns, scallops, mussels) that you can hardly see the pasta. The large fried seafood plate hits all of the right crispy and salty notes, and is perfect if you need something bigger to share.