Communion was the last exciting restaurant opening of 2020, but most certainly not least. Owner and chef Kristi Brown (of That Brown Girl Cooks fame) had spent the past year feeding those in need during the pandemic while preparing for the restaurant’s grand opening with her son, Damon Bomar. We’re glad to see a Black-owned business back in the Liberty Bank Building again, serving immensely comforting soul food influenced by Ethiopian and Vietnamese cuisine. The cornmeal-battered catfish po’mi is an ideal cross between a remoulade-laced po’ boy and salty, pork pate-slathered banh mi. Their buttery shrimp and grits (followed by a nutmeg-forward peach cobbler) brought me back to 2009 when I spent a year in Savannah, Georgia. And those lemony lentils are some of the tastiest legumes in town. Communion is a fantastic addition to the entire city, let alone the Central District.
Jessica Rycheal/Malina Lopez
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