San Martin Kalea, 22, Donostia
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The outdoor setup at Narru is exactly where you want to be in the nicer months: under the column-lined arcade looking out on the Buen Pastor cathedral, eating seasonal and simple-but-well-executed dishes, and among a buzzy crowd where all the locals go to see and be seen on the weekends. 

Even if the phrase “cod chin” feels like an oddly-specific insult, don’t let that prevent you from trying some of the city’s best kokotxas, served in three styles: sauced, battered, and pil pil. The highlights of the menu are when they let the fancy ingredients shine, so try the oysters topped with an apple vinaigrette and the oxtail ravioli served with foie gras and shaved black truffle.

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