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SF

Review

Mary Lagier

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana

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Written by
Mary Lagier

Here’s what you need to know about Tony’s Pizza Napoletana: they serve 12 different styles of pizza, cooked at seven different temperatures, using five individual heat sources. There are multiple shapes and varieties of dough, toppings, and each style of pizza has its own dedicated oven. Some pizzas are only available in limited quantities per day. Even then, some aren’t available during certain hours. Here’s what else you need to know - even with all of this going on, Tony’s still makes some of the best pizza in SF.

The menu at Tony’s has a lot going on, and the pizza combinations are seemingly endless. And because of that, you can find the right one for whatever you need in the moment. The margherita neapolitan pie with a soft crust and the right amount of char sets the standard that other places aim to replicate, the New Yorker loaded down with sausage, pepperoni, and cheese will remind you that pizza is great when it’s just trying to be pizza, and the Eddie Muenster with fried kale, bacon, honey, and muenster is much better than you’d expect from any pizza with kale on it.

There’s no denying that this place is a scene - from the long lines outside and the Pizza World Championships Smackdown trophies, to the framed pictures of Rachel Ray and the dizzying menu itself. But for a spot that makes more types of pizza than Sean Combs has had stage names, Tony’s is impressive. So when you’re sitting here, possibly overwhelmed by the massive menu, and reading all about oven temperatures and dough fermentation times, just know that you’ve already made the only decision that matters - when you wanted pizza, you came to Tony’s.

Food Rundown

Margherita Neapolitan Pizza

This is a very solid margherita pizza. It won’t transport you to Naples, but that’s because it’s food and not an Einstein-Rosen Bridge.

Spicy Grandma

The crust on this is thick and almost cakey, and it has cheese both melted under and over the sauce. There’s no shame eating this with a knife and fork.

Eddie Muenster

This is a little greasy from the muenster, but it’s still a really good pizza. Sweet from honey, hot from calabrese peppers, meaty from bacon, healthy from kale, and unhealthy from the fact that that kale has been deep fried beforehand. Make sure to squeeze some lemon over the top.

New Yorker

This is pizza. It’s nothing wild, but it’s spicy and good and the ricotta cools it off a little. It’s what you want with a tall beer while watching a game.

Pasta Genovese

This is fine, but you’re here for pizza, so order pizza.

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