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American  in  Soma
Written by

We’re still on the lookout for a SoMa go-to, near the ballpark. Marlowe is a base hit but not a home run. (Clever, we know.)

The scene is pretty solid, and the lunch and dinner offerings are well- conceived. It’s close to the Caltrain, which is nice for those trips down the Peninsula.

But the food is not all the way there. It frequently seems like the person who invented each dish could make a great version, but the person in the kitchen can’t. Case in point: the burger. We’ve seen some serious love on the internets, but, having had it twice, we don’t really get what the fuss is about. (Or with the fries - we’ve only had the “good version” once in the three tries.

The Brussels sprouts dishes came in at a similar “not bad but not great” zone. In fact, we’d say that the only thing we can strongly recommend is the poulet vert (French for fancified roast chicken).

That said, Marlowe is one of the best spots in deep SoMa, so if you’re out and about at startup Happy Hours held in formerly abandoned warehouses, you’ll probably end up there.

We’ll be back, but we wish we were more excited about it.

Food Rundown

Deviled egg

Let’s start with something delicious. These were amazing - creamy, spicy eggs with a nice bacon topper. We would eat a half-dozen.

Brussel sprout chips

Kind of like potato chips, but green, a bit sour, and not nearly as good. We understand “healthy” food is “good” for you, but if you’re gonna fry vegetables, might as well get it right.

Baked Oyster

Unremarkable. A pile of breading on top of an oyster that may or may not have been good. Hard to tell under a mound of fried whatever.

Poulet vert

Pretty tasty, but a little heavy on the mushroom/gravy/fatty flavors. Not quite up to the Zuni standard. This is a tough town for giant roast chickens, sorry amigos.

Burger and fries

A decent bacon cheeseburger. World-changing? Nah. Some say this is the best burger in town. If so, we pray for San Francisco.

Brussels sprouts

Yeah, we had two different Brussels sprouts dishes. Welcome to the twenty- first century! These were also a bit sour and not wildly delicious, like the chips.

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