SFReview

A new West Oakland spot from pitmaster Matt Horn has entered the ring and is adding fuel to the never-ending Best Bay Area Fried Chicken Sandwich debate. Kowbird is serving worthy contenders, and that’s mainly due to the high quality ingredients that go into them, like slaw, housemade pickles, creamy mayo, and soft potato buns that don’t overpower the star: juicy and perfectly-fried chicken thighs with crusts that have a nice hint of rosemary. There are three kinds on the menu—Nashville-inspired Hot Bird, Southern Bird, and Honey Bird—in addition to things like chicken wings, mac and cheese, and candied apples. Unless you come on a weekday, you’ll need to brave a line. But fried chicken sandwiches that will make you reconsider your F-C-S power rankings are always worth the wait.

Julia Chen

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