SFReview
Komaaj
Komaaj opened in 2015 as a pop-up, and in 2020 they launched a new takeout spot out of The Laundry, an art gallery and events space in the Mission - and I’m glad they did. They specialize in dishes from Gilan, a province along the Caspian Sea in Northern Iran. And each one is packed with so many kinds of nuts, herbs, and spices that take my taste buds on a roller coaster ride that only goes up. Case in point: the kuku sabzi, a spongy, herb-y green frittata leveled up with a dollop of rich sumac labneh, or the Persian cucumber salad with barberries, radishes, and dalar, a fermented herb paste loaded with mint, cilantro, and savory. But the dish that really showcased an unbelievable balance of flavor was the sumac-roasted chickpeas dunked in a sweet walnut, herb, and pomegranate molasses stew (there’s a slightly sour version of the stew with a savory chicken thigh and drumstick, which you should also get). If you want to know more about the ingredients used at Komaaj and in Northern Iranian cooking, I highly recommend following their Instagram.
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