In San Francisco, there are pizza spots that are good, great, and really great. The latter is how we categorize Joyride Pizza, a counter-serve spot in Yerba Buena Gardens making Detroit-style pies that send “order me” alarms to our brain at least twice a day.

What makes this place somewhere we’d cross town on a unicycle for is that no crust is ever left behind. Each pizza is the size of a small encyclopedia, and composed of the perfect ratio of crust to sauce to toppings. The airy focaccia is evenly golden brown on the bottom, and has caramelized outer walls made entirely of cheese. Even when toppings are piled on top, it stays light and fluffy.

photo credit: Melissa Zink

When it comes to the toppings, you can pick your own or leave it in the hands of the experts and go with one of their six specials. Whatever combination you end up getting, your pizza will taste like a local farmers market exploded all over each slice, from the shaved brussels sprouts to the hunks of pineapple that get nice and juicy in the oven. If you’d rather go the meat-heavy route, the Meatzza is a saucy behemoth loaded with pepperoni, sausage, and bacon.

And then there’s the tomato sauce. It’s arguably the most important factor to any great pizza, and the one at Joyride reigns supreme. It’s slightly sweet and chunky, with hints of basil and oregano that taste like they were just picked hours before. A power move we wholeheartedly endorse is ordering a little bowl of it on the side for dipping, or eating with a spoon like it’s a soup.

photo credit: Melissa Zink

Pizza-induced euphoria (and possibly the desire to take a long nap) is the inevitable outcome of all three of these elements coming together seamlessly. And the best part is it takes just one bite out of any of Joyride’s pizzas to get there. Like the pepperoni, decorated with thick tomato sauce stripes and a shower of shaved parmesan. Or the Sweet Heat Pineapple, which is layered with five types of cheese and enough jalapeños and hot honey to launch a sweet, salty, and spicy fireworks display in your mouth.

The pizzas are definitely the main attraction, but the menu also has a few good pastas, like pesto fusilli and chiocciole bolognese. While there’s nothing glaringly wrong with them, they’re not particularly memorable, so stick with the pies. Joyride also serves cocktails, beer, and wine—consider ordering one with your pie, then grabbing a table inside the high-ceilinged space or patio overlooking the expansive gardens and chilling a while. Once you do leave, just know your brain’s “order me” alarm will steer you back here tomorrow.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Melissa Zink

Zoe ’roni Pepperoni

Big pepperonis are laid over a bed of mozzarella and finished with a thick stripe of Joyride’s tomato sauce. The light focaccia crust with crispy, greasy cheese edges ties everything together to create the perfect pizza.

photo credit: Melissa Zink

Sweet Heat Pineapple

This is one of the pizzas on the menu that doesn’t have tomato sauce—but it’s delicious all the same. It comes with pineapple, jalapeño, hot honey, and five different types of cheese, and really nails the sweet, salty, and spicy flavors we want in every bite.

photo credit: Melissa Zink

Spare Parts Chop

Joyride’s chopped salad is served in a pizza pan, and is a glorious amalgamation of romaine, brussels sprouts, pepperoni, chunks of gruyere, and more. It’s all tossed with a lemon-y vinaigrette that’s refreshing and bright.

photo credit: Melissa Zink

Fusilli Pesto

All of the pasta at Joyride is also made in their kitchen, and our favorite is the fusilli with pesto, cherry tomatoes, and a sprinkling of garlicky breadcrumbs. While the pasta here is generally outshined by the pizza, this is a good option for the table to share if you want a break from the pies.