Remember the “superstar effect,” from the Nojo review? Point being that there are about ten restaurants that everyone wants to go to, all the time. Frances is one of those ten.
But let’s come at Frances from behind the veil of ignorance, and pretend it’s as easy to go to as any other restaurant. How is it then? To quote Larry David, pretty... pretty good. Some of the signature dishes are overrated (looking at you, bacon beignets). Some are not (what up, chickpea panisse). But the average level of quality is high. The room is comfortable. It’s a good spot.
So let’s ask the harder question. Is it worth the 60-day planning horizon and pint of blood you have to give up to eat here at 7:30 on a Friday? Probably...not? Frances is good, but it’s not a game-changer. We didn’t go home telling tales of lumberjack cake and reminiscing about the pastas. We’re not proselytizing the Frances way, like we do for some places. It’s just a very solid neighborhood restaurant.
We don’t want to hold their popularity against them, though. They didn’t ask to be the eye of this hurricane of interest. But we wish we could drop in here on a whim more often. It reminds us of that old Yogi Berra line: “Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.”
Kind of just fried dough. Didn’t bring the bacon flavor enough for our bacon-craving palates. The creme fraiche dip, though, that was solid.
Mmmmmm... fried chickpeas. As we said, not overrated.
Perfect pink steak atop a little pile of vegetables. We respect your efforts to sneak healthy foods into our meats, Frances.
KALE kale kale I love kale everyone loves kale don’t you love kale?
Perfectly pink duck atop a little pile of fruits and vegetables. Also good.
This may be controversial, but o-ver-rat-ed. Dried out and just not punching with flavor. Maybe we got it on a bad day.