The Trinidadian restaurant on High Street in Oakland run by Annabelle Goodridge and her daughter is a literal bright spot: The first time we rolled up to it one December evening, tinsel garlands and icicle lights decorated the boxy building, which was topped with huge blow-up Santas and cone Christmas trees. Warm, heart-tugging joy was also infused into every dish we ordered—pholourie (fried split pea dough and turmeric) with a side of chunky tamarind dip, a thick chicken roti stuffed with chickpeas and potatoes, and an herby, life-changing jerk chicken that slowly built heat on the tongue.