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Blowfish Sushi

Blowfish is an old-school sushi restaurant. Not old-school Japanese, but old-school American, when the notion of eating raw slices of fish first made a beachhead on our shores.

As this was unpalatable to our burger-lovin' taste buds, an ingenious chef in Los Angeles came up with a workaround: mix everything with avocado! And thus sushi's path to success was paved to modern times.

Avocado alone is not enough, Blowfish would argue. Kiwi with scallops? Bring it. Cream cheese? Let's do it. One roll we tried had more ingredients than most "molecular cuisine": albacore, salmon, tuna, cucumber, red leaf lettuce, potato bits, and yuzu tobiko, topped with soy paper and ginger garlic honey tartar sauce. One fish not enough? How about three? Soy sauce not getting it done? We'll raise you soy PAPER, with some ginger garlic honey tartar sauce to spare.

But is more, more? How many ingredients does it take to make something taste good? We'll leave you to ruminate on that, but our answer is fewer than this.

We can't leave, though, without discussing the signature dish: the tartare pyramid. It's a Luxor-style three-layer tower of avocado, salmon, and tuna. But the best part is that the server asks, "can I mix this?," and before you know it, he's smashed the top with the sweet-ginger-garlic-sauce cup, poured it into the resulting depression, and mixed the concoction into something resembling...uh...what it looks like in your stomach, after you eat it. It tasted pretty good to be honest, but we agree with our dinner companion's take: "I see why they don't serve it like that."

Real question, though: does any of this matter? It seemed like business was rolling along at Blowfish. It's a good place to bring a group, drink fine sake (thumbs up on the options), and maybe catch a game on one of the TVs. Blowfish Sushi seems like it's exactly what it wants to be. That's fine, we just think the food would do better transported back a decade, or three.

Food Rundown

Definitely the best hit of the night, although the clam was super chewy. Stick with the classics, you'll do okay.

Halibut Crudo
Pretty good! Little pieces of halibut in a bath of insane ingredients (white truffle oil, mango salsa, wasabi tobiko, caviar) somehow came out tasty.

Tartare Pyramid
Perhaps the ultimate Instagram dish in the difference between the attractiveness of the presentation and the final, edible outcome.

These were all pretty weak. Steer clear of the "scallopy" and the "greedy girl." The latter is pink (on the outside), but we promise we didn't hold that against it. Just not good.

We sadly only had the eel, but it was solid quality.

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