You almost certainly know that Italy is famous for its pizza, but what you may not know is that in Rome, full pizza pies (as opposed to slices, called pizza al taglia) are typically eaten at dinner time, not lunch. But if a single slice just won’t do, head to Emma near Campo de' Fiori. The pizza here is soft-crusted Neapolitan-style with toppings like the best buffalo mozzarella from Paestum, tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius, prosciutto from Tuscany, and anchovies from Sicily. There’s an excellent wine list, an interesting collection of craft beers, outside seating under umbrellas, and a modern, bright dining room.

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