È Passata la Moretta

This simple, family-run trattoria makes an excellent rigatoni con la pajata, a short pasta in a creamy sauce made of tomatoes and the intestines of an unweaned calf. The chalkboard menu, which goes hard on seasonal vegetables like cicoria, puntarelle, and artichokes, changes depending on what’s available in the market that day. There’s usually a daily pasta special and a varied and interesting selection of wines by the glass that covers off on straightforward whites from the nearby Castelli Hills to an elegant Barbera from the Piedmont region. If you’re lucky, a wiggly panna cotta topped with wild sour cherries will be on the dessert menu.