You come to Cafe Diem for the pho–theirs is excellent with shrimp and pork–but you come back, over and over, for the bun bo hue (pho’s spicy cousin). Its rich broth is layered with lemongrass, shrimp paste, and chili oil. Get the regular, which is packed with beef, tendon, and pork feet, and the Thai tea with chewy cubes of grass jelly. The Little Saigon cafe is tiny, so don’t come with more than a couple of friends, and make sure you’re comfortable sweating in front of them. You will.