We’ll forgive the ‘90s decor (inexplicable modern art, stonewashed walls, etc.) because the food itself at Substance is representative of today. The degustation menu is seasonal, but there are two standout signatures: the amuse bouche bowl of whipped potatoes and runny cancoillotte cheese topped with trout eggs, and a sharp, creamy lemon tarte palate cleanser that’s presented as a paw print.
The three-course lunch is €62 and the five-course dinner is €125. Despite its location in the posh and otherwise quiet 16th arrondissement, it’s a great destination pre- or post-visit to Place du Trocadéro for viewing the Eiffel Tower, or the nearby fashion houses and museum expos of YSL or Dior.