Substance

We’ll forgive the ‘90s decor—inexplicable modern art, stonewashed walls, etc.—because the food itself at Substance is representative of today. The degustation menu, which changes seasonally, does have two standout signatures: the amuse bouche bowl of whipped potatoes and runny cancoillotte cheese topped with trout eggs, and the Apology for Excess palate cleanser served on a ceramic plate that looks like a paw print. Each of its finger pads feature one of four dollops of quintessential flavor profiles—fat, spicy, sweet, and tart—used to create the main bite itself: a sharp, creamy lemon tarte. The three-course lunch is €62 and the five-course dinner is €100.

Despite its location in the posh and otherwise quiet 16th arrondissement, it’s a great destination pre- or post-visit to Place du Trocadéro for viewing the Eiffel Tower, or the nearby fashion houses and museum expos of YSL or Dior.