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You can’t get more centrally located than Nellu, located a block from the Seine and Ile Saint-Louis. Arrive after 5pm for wine and light snacks, or come later on for larger dishes like an al dente spelt risotto with mussels and bonito flakes. Wash it all down with something crisp and natural, like a weißburgunder, a German pinot blanc, or a sauvignon from independent (and beloved) Loire Valley producer Noella Morantin. The shared plates change up every month or so, and while the wine list has options from the Czech Republic to Croatia, just tell the somm what you’re after and they’ll make recommendations.