Not to be confused with Marché Des Enfants Rouges, the name of the market where this restaurant is located (if you want to call a vendor stand with stools a restaurant), this no-reservations, pull-up-a-seat-if-you-can-find-one spot is pretty remarkable given its setting. One minute you’ll get a waft of fat sizzling on a stovetop and the next you’ll catch a whiff of raw fish mixed with roses from stalls a few feet away. Plates like white asparagus with bottarga and grilled octopus in a chimichurri sauce come out when they’re ready and don’t expect water unless you ask for it - it’s all about wine here. “What do you like?” the somm will ask, and minutes later she’ll return with three open bottles to taste - all of them spectacular. The stools in front of the cooks are ideal for being in on the fun, but the service is attentive even if the only seats left are around the bend, facing a blank wall.