PARReview
Le Chardenoux
The hundred-year-old marble bar is just one of the remarkable relics inside this restaurant in Paris’s popular gourmand quartier, Village Faidherbe. There’s also the hand-painted leaf motif ceiling, etched glass windows, and ornate crown moldings. You could skip visiting Versailles or a performance at the Opera Garnier and still get your fill of over-the-top aristocratic decor by coming here. That is, if you can resist sitting outside on the 30-seat, sunny terrace in the summer.
The fish-focused menu changes seasonally, but regular standouts include the crunchy crab galette with avocado and curry and the citrus salmon crispy rice topped with jalapeños. Service is surprisingly attentive and almost downright friendly, and while the vanilla millefeuille will be tempting, if you’re there during the day, consider a detour across the street to the chef’s bakery or the chocolate shop. (Alternatively, do both.)
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