From start to Arak digestif, this women-run Lebanese hotspot with rust-colored subway tiles on the walls boasts a raucous atmosphere that’ll make you feel like you’re in the souks of Beirut. Really, though, you’re in the hip upper Marais where seats are in subterranean rooms or at the open kitchen-bar.
Start with one of their khebez, or bread-accompanied dips like the labné, which comes topped with a pile of greens like broccolini and mint. Other highlights include the Chou Hispi, a grilled piece of cabbage with a supporting ingredient that’s the real star: spicy cream cheese topped with pickled apricot. We also love the gambas, or shrimp, that come sans shell for easy eating in a butter shawarma sauce that’s almost sweet, thanks to a sesame cream.
You’re going to have to come with a crew to order the giant plate of lamb or beef ribs (€105 and recommended for five or six people) smothered in tahini, tomatoes, and sumac, and you’d be wise to plan your meal around ordering the Osmallié, a sticky nest of shredded phyllo dough topped with creamy ashta and roasted pear, for dessert.
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