When your Uber drops you off on the side of this hillside street way up in northern Paris, you’d be forgiven for wondering where, exactly, you are. But you’re still within city limits (just barely) and about to enter the most Frenchiest of rooms: crown moldings, giant mirrors, white tablecloths.
Whether you opt for à la carte or the five- or seven-course tasting menu, start with the warm focaccia and the oysters served with ponzu and kumquat. After that, maybe you’ll have beef tartare in a raspberry vinaigrette between two pieces of radicchio, or the giant gnocco bolognese that’s almost like an Italian Shepherd’s pie in both presentation and heartiness. Either way, it’ll be executed with precision and plated on second-hand dishes found by the owner at a flea market.
You won’t notice when your carafe of water has been refilled, and a new bread basket arrives without having to ask for it. It’s a truly wonderful dining experience from start to finish, and a perfect choice for a meal with your parents or a special celebration with friends. They even have a hidden back room that can be booked for private groups.
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