Eretyk is a wine-sake-vermouth cave à manger on a small side street just off rue de Charonne. The Italian owner does all the wine buying and cooking, but don't expect Italian classics—the menu is more "what he feels like" than anything else. In practice, that might mean pasta (a green tagliatelle with peas and bread crumbs, perhaps), but also melon from the Southwest of France with smoked ham in a blueberry sauce. As for the wine, there is a list, but the staff prefer you talk to them and share what you feel like. It’s all natural, so on a hot, sticky night when there’s no table on the terrace, try a crisp, unfiltered muscadet from the Loire Atlantique while sitting inside and listening to the jazz coming from the speakers.