Bar Etna encourages indecisiveness. There’s no traditional carte du vin here, just a small laminated menu with illustrations of snacks—like truffle gorgonzola cheese, sardines, burrata, and oysters—and instructions to “describe in your own words the wine you like.” And if words fail you, they’ll happily come over and pour you a taste or three of a Sardinian red using carignan grapes or a light Loire Valley chenin blanc. Get there before 7pm to grab one of the corduroy-covered stools at the four standalone wooden tables, otherwise join the crowd of young locals standing around the bar that looks like a giant, hollowed-out canoe.