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NC

Review

Stephen Thrift

Pizzeria Toro

$$$$
Pizza  in  Durham
Stephen Thrift

Maybe you’re a recent transplant from a bigger city and you’re wary of all this open space and the strangers who make eye contact. When you find yourself looking for a loud, buzzy restaurant, head to Pizzeria Toro for dinner. There’s an open kitchen with a huge pizza oven, a long communal table down the center, and smaller tables and counters around the edge of the room. The wood-fired pizzas are thin and crispy on the bottom, with a chewy, blistered crust, and while the margherita is one of the best options, you can also choose from topping combinations like fennel sausage with roasted peppers and provolone, or a soft egg with oyster mushrooms, arugula, and parmesan. Like the pizzas, the appetizers change seasonally, but the bitter kale salad with parmesan and Calabrian chilis is a must, as is finishing with the fried-to-order zeppoles.

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